JEEP QUESTION from Deb:

I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L with 220,000 miles. I have been the only owner and have always done regular maintenance on it. I have been having a problem with it sputtering and choking sometimes. It will carry on a little, then stop for miles, and sometimes days before it happens again. I have tried fuel treatment and it seems to help a little but then it starts up again. Any suggestions?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Deb,

Although there are a number of possible reasons for sporadic engine problems, there are a few basic things that are relatively simple to correct, with little time and cost.

The throttle body can develop a build up of varnish internally which will cause sporadic sputtering and choking. Fuel treatments may help a little but once the problem starts it is necessary to have a thorough cleaning done to the throttle body itself.

It can be removed and cleaned, or cleaned while the engine is running. Either way, carefully use a good spray Throttle Body cleaner that is designed to work with catalytic converters and O2 sensors.

If this doesn't do the trick I suggest installing new ignition wires, and appropriate factory recommended spark plugs (gapped to specs).

A failing fuel pump may also be the cause, but this is a bear to change out so try the above first.

Of course, if your Check Engine Light is coming on you will need to have an OBD II (On Board Diagnostics) check done to find out what the specific issue is...such as a sensor, or an emissions problem.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Jenn:

I have a simple question that I hope to get an honest answer before I bring my Jeep to a mechanic and he tries to rip me off. I have a 2008 JK Jeep Wrangler Unlimited X with 31,000 miles on it. It seems to 'bog down' a lot when I give it gas (it has a manual tranny). What could cause that? Something simple like replacing the air filter? It also eats oil a lot for an engine that has few miles for its age. Thoughts? Thank you for your time...Jenn

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jenn, Your question is simple and to the point, unfortunately there are a number of possible causes for your Jeep's problems. The thing that jumps out the most is that your engine is using ("eating") oil. With the low mileage your Jeep has it should not be using any oil unless you have a significant oil leak, which would show up on your engine, garage floor, or driveway. If it is definitely burning oil, or pushing it out of the crankcase ventilation valve, you may have an internal engine problem such as bad piston rings, or faulty valves. Hopefully, this is not the case but you may need to get professional input to find out.

If you bought your JK new, and assuming that you have not abused or neglected it over the years (doesn't sound that way), I would say that indeed it is having some uncommon problems for its low mileage. However, if it was pre-owned when you bought it, the previous owner(s) may have abused and neglected it causing some of the current problems to surface.

If your "check engine" light is coming on you should get an OBD II (On Board Diagnostic) scan done to pinpoint the problem. You can always try a good tune-up/maintenance first (which should be done regularly anyway). This would include new spark plugs (properly gapped to specs), new air filter, oil change and new oil filter. While doing the tune-up, check carefully for any vacuum leaks. These can bog down an engine as well. Look for any disconnected, broken or worn vacuum hoses. Finally, clean the throttle body with an approved Throttle Body spray cleaner.

Also, your "bogging down" when accelerating may indicate a slipping clutch. Have the clutch checked to rule this out. Sorry there are no simple answers, but seeking good mechanical advice from a mechanic you trust may be the best route for diagnosing and fixing the problem(s). Hope this helps some, Jenn.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from John:

I am a first time Jeep owner. I bought a '95 Wrangler with 4 mean ones under the hood (4 cylinder). I notice that it loses power so easy and I have to down shift a lot. The smallest grade loses me power and can't get past 4th gear. It has HUGE tires (33" I believe). There's no spitting or sputtering just can't go fast.

Also, will large tires mess my speedometer up. My wife said I was going 60 mph but the gauge showed 50 mph. Any suggestions on more power?

MY ANSWER:

Hi John,

First I will tell you that the larger tires will change your speedometer reading. You are going faster than your current speedometer is reading, so be careful or you may get a ticket (been there, done that).

Also, the larger tires will affect overall performance on pavement, especially highway speeds. The Wrangler 4-cyl. motor is a good engine especially off road, however it is lacking when trying to accelerate quickly, pass other vehicles, or get up to speed easily on the highway.

The larger tires effectively change the functional differential gear ratio. Your current standard differential gear ratio is 4.10 to 1 if you have the factory rear and front axle...which is set up for the factory tire size of approximately 28 or 29 inches. So, you can see that 33" tires (or larger) will be a significant difference in ratio, weight, and rolling resistance. You could go back to the original factory tire size and see better overall performance...and return your speedometer to its normal setting.

Unfortunately the 4-cyl. motor will never be a "screamer" on the highway or off the line without a turbocharger, or an increased ratio of gearing in both the front and rear axles. With 33" tires your Jeep would show reasonable improvement with 4.56, or 4.88 to 1 axle gear ratios (remember you probably have the 4.10 to 1 gearing now). This would allow you to get into 5th gear (overdrive) on the highway...and also increase low end torque for acceleration. Changing gears can be relatively expensive and should be done by professionals.

A lot of folks use their 4-banger Wranglers for daily drivers as well as for off roading. Most complain about the lack of brute power, but most seem to adjust. One positive thing is that I have seen these 4-cyl Jeeps do extremely well off road primarily because the transfer case has very low factory gearing in the 4-wheel low range setting.

Hope this helps some, John.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Joshua:

Hi Larry, Some time ago I ran into a website that said (other than buying a Jeep YJ or Jeep Scrambler) that if you simply LOWER (as opposed to LIFTING) a Jeep CJ7 about an inch and a half, and simply adding slightly WIDER tires that the risk of rollover is reduced. Is this true? Have you heard anything similar? This was about 5 to 6 years ago. I did not save the website or remember the name, and Googling this question has not worked.

JEEP QUESTION from Mark:

I have had the pleasure of dealing with you before about my 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country and thought I would run this one by you.

My ignition buzzer will not quit buzzing. I have checked all fuses...all good. The only thing that I know of that might have started this situation was when my headlight switch burnt out and I replaced it, it was the same time it went bad and the constant buzzing began. I thought this might be an indication that the switch was bad, but when replaced, the buzzing continued.

Driving 15 miles to work with a constant buzz is annoying...(the Jeep is buzzing, not the driver, lol). Any words of wisdom? Thanks

MY ANSWER:

Hi Mark,

Are you absolutely certain the driver is not the one "buzzing"?...ha! Either way you could just turn the stereo up really loud and open up all of the windows....

Okay, time to get serious. I'm afraid I am not going to be much help on this one. When it comes to electrical issues I find myself doing a lot of search and research, as well as trial and error to locate the cause(s).

I suggest finding the location of the buzzer itself, then tracing the wiring back to the ignition switch and power source. It appears there is a short, cross wiring, or bad connection somewhere within the loop. To save your sanity until you can figure out a fix try disconnecting the buzzer until you do.

Sorry, I couldn't be of more assistance. Please let me know what you find.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from John:

I just purchased a 1980 CJ7 with the inline 258 six. It is really in good condition but me and my daughter are wanting to do a complete rebuild. From what I can see there is surprisingly very little rust. The frame and tub are in decent shape. The frame will need lots of prep before any painting or powder-coating could take place. I am thinking about buying an (aftermarket) Quadratec frame to start off my build, and then selling my (original) frame when done. What do you think? Smart or no?

MY ANSWER:

Hi John,

I'm not sure what the going price is for a used 1980 CJ7 frame, but I would guess that one in good condition would be in demand since they are getting hard to find (in good shape).

For an $1800+ investment in a new Quadratec supplied frame, it might be a good idea for 3 specific reasons:

1) the new frame is stronger than the original frame
2) a lot less hassle with prepping the frame to body
3) you may get back some of the investment in the new frame when you sell the original frame

A few reasons to keep the old frame (assuming it is straight, undamaged and rust free) are:

1) simple cost savings
2) maintaining an original structural part of the Jeep
3) the old frame can be "beefed up" with some fabrication

Also, before investing in a new frame I suggest making sure the tub/body is not seriously rusted in places that are hard to see...especially in the well seams, suspension mounts, and the body to frame mounts.

Hope all goes well, John.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from David:

I've always wanted a Jeep. I found a 4-cylinder 2000 Wrangler TJ with 105k miles. No options. No modifications. I just want it for the beach and trails mainly, but will be doing some highway driving. It's in good shape and the price seems good.

My concern is that I heard the 4-cylinders are underpowered. Should I go for it?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Dave,

First of all the 4-cyl. 2.5L engine is a good engine. On a stock Wrangler TJ with factory sized tires this engine will perform well on, or off road.

The problem comes about when putting on larger than stock tires, lift kits and heavy add-ons like bumpers, a winch, body armor, etc. All of these things can negatively affect performance (on any rig for that matter).

If you leave the Jeep stock it should perform adequately on the highway, and very well off road. Consider that all of the original Jeeps had 4-cyl. engines and served their purpose just fine...however, they were not run at today's highway speeds.

The best advise I can give you is to test drive this particular 4-cyl. Jeep and take it out on the highway. Take note of how quickly (or slowly) it gets up to speed entering a busy highway. Run it in 5th gear (overdrive) and see if you can maintain highway speed on mild inclines.

I would have no problem taking any 4-cyl. Jeep off road, or on city streets...however, highway performance will depend on your personal assessment.

Hope this helps some, Dave.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Rhys:

I recently purchased a 2003 TJ Wrangler in beautiful condition. Some of the boys at my work have been giving me a hard time about an apparent fault these vehicle's have. The fault being bending the diff. or diff. housings. I searched up on the net but couldn't find much about it.

My vehicle would be used mainly for four wheel driving, but no rock climbing or anything. Just hill climbs, mud and soft beach sand is the terrain my Jeep would be "playing" in.

So in your opinion do these vehicles have a tendency to bend the front diff. or are my work mates incorrect? Also, if they do have such a tendency is there ways to avoid or strengthen diff housing?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Rhys,

Your '03 Wrangler (from the factory) should have a Dana 30 front axle and either a Dana 35 or Dana 44 rear axle.

The only way that the axle housings, differential cases or axle shafts will be bent is under extreme conditions like (extreme) rock crawling, deep mud bogging, racing conditions, or just plain old abuse.

The front axle shafts in the Dana 30 are durable for most any "normal" off roading. The rear Dana 35 has a reputation of having weak axle shafts which tend to break under severe conditions...however, there are Jeep owners still out there doing hard-core rock crawling with both of these stock axles intact.

The Dana 44 axle is generally a very tough solid axle for most moderate to severe conditions.

Hard-core off roaders like to tell novices about what they need to do with their Jeeps...and some of their advice is worth listening to...but you ultimately know how you plan to use your Jeep and the stock axle set-up should work just fine.

Hope this helps, Rhys.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Alex:

I recently bought a 1998 Grand Cherokee Limited with a 5.2 V8. I got it about a year ago with 112,000 mi. and it now has 128,000 mi. and has started to have a few hiccups.

The car wouldn't start or be able to be jumped so I brought it to a shop and they replaced the battery. It died again so I charged the battery and the car ran for a while.

I think I drove it maybe 5 times between when it got the new battery and when it died again. I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with it without pouring lots of money into it before I leave for Afghanistan. Thanks for your help.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Alex,

Three things immediately come to mind although there are many possibilities for your Jeep's problem.

1) Have the alternator checked. Replace if needed. Make sure all of the wiring to the alternator is connected well and in good shape.

2) Make sure the negative ground cable from the battery is well connected to the block.

3) Make sure there is no unnecessary electrical draw draining the battery. Check glove box light (door not closing all the way), radio, door lights, auxiliary lights, engine compartment light, etc. for staying on when the engine is switched off.

Hope this helps some Alex...and thank you for your service if you are in the military.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Denise:

I just got a Jeep Liberty 2007 and was driving it home on the hwy. I was doing 70mph and punched it and the rpm went from like 2000 to almost redline and the Jeep didn't go any faster. Is the (automatic) transmission slipping? Please help. Should I take it in to get it looked at?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Denise,

Before having the transmission looked at professionally you might try two things first:

1) transmission fluid level. If it is low then fill to specifications with new clean automatic transmission fluid (ATF)

2) if the fluid level is normal, your transmission may only need to be serviced. Drop the pan on the transmission (have a large catch pan...messy), drain the old ATF fluid (it will all come out when the pan is removed), replace the transmission filter, put new gasket and sealer on the transmission pan, and bolt it back on...refill to specified level with fresh new ATF.

If this doesn't solve the problem then you may need to consult with a good automatic transmission mechanic.

Hope this helps some Denise.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Camron:

I have an '88 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 Ltr. On a full tank of fuel I (only) get 330 kilometer's or 180 miles. Can you point me in a direction?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Camron,

There are a lot of possible reasons for less than normal gas mileage. Below are some of the most common:

1) Hard driving. Heavy foot on the accelerator. Off roading.

2) Mostly in town driving at a stop and go pace.

3) Jeep needs serious tuning. New spark plugs, ignition wires, timing sensors, etc.

4) Check compression for each cylinder. A weak cylinder or two can really adversely affect mileage.

5) Dirty throttle body and/or injectors. Use a good TB and injector cleaner.

My '87 Comanche MJ 4.0L (about the same as your '88 Cherokee) has at one time or another had some of these problems above. When it was newer my Jeep got consistently around 19 mpg. Now (it currently has a weak #1 cylinder) it gets no more than 16 mpg at best. I have fixed all of the other problems, but the compression and ring problem is a lot more involved, and I have not yet gotten around to tearing into the motor.

Hope this helps some Camron.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Brian:

I have an unrestored 1976 Jeep CJ7. I bought it for $1500 and put in new seats, and painted it. I have looked everywhere, but I can not find what the fair market value is on this Jeep. Please help!

MY ANSWER:

Hi Brian,

The condition of any older Jeep usually determines how much consumers are willing to pay...up to a point.

Example 1: I just spotted an unrestored '76 CJ7 on craigslist.org in my area, fairly complete except with no motor, trans or t-case. It needed paint, but it looked pretty straight otherwise. The seller was asking $1000 as is.

Example 2: I have seen the same year CJ7 in fully restored condition with an asking price of $15,000 to $25,000.

Example 3: I recently saw a customized '76 CJ7 with the lift, big tires, Chevy V8 motor, nice paint and a number of upgrades for around $10,000.

The point is that there is a great range in the levels of overall condition, which can determine the asking prices for these Jeeps. Also, due to their age there is no "Kelly Blue Book" type of rating system available.

Remember that many of these sellers may never get what they are asking, because the market won't accommodate. In other words, your Jeep is only as valuable as what someone is willing to pay for it...and what the seller is willing to accept.

You might try putting your CJ7 on Ebay Motors auction and set a hidden "reserve"...then see what kind of bids you get. If your Jeep has real potential (no rust, runs well, etc.) you might be surprised at the offers (bids).

Hope this helps some Brian.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Kyle:

I have an opportunity to purchase a clean 1995 4x4 Grand Cherokee 5.2 liter v-8 with 110,000 miles on the engine (which is not running) for $1,000.

My questions are: Is this a good price for this vehicle? What is a fair price for a used engine? If I did an engine swap, what other V-8s will match-up with this vehicles automatic transmission and engine mounting brackets with the least modifications?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide.

Kyle from Texas

MY ANSWER:

Hi Kyle,

The 5.2L V8 is a very good motor (when it is in good condition). I would investigate having the engine rebuilt (if not too far gone) or replacing it with another 5.2L, which is the simplest and least expensive way to get the GC back on the road.

With that said the price may be right, but there are a ton of unknowns with any non-running vehicle. There might be transmission problems, transfer case issues, axle/drive-shaft problems, etc...all of which cannot be tested in a non-running vehicle before purchase.

If you have the mechanical skills to rebuild the motor and any other problems that may crop up...and the rest of the GC looks promising...then you might want to go for it. With any non-running vehicle I do one of two things:

1) offer as little as possible to take it off of the sellers hands, or

2) walk away as fast as I can and keep looking for something better (which I did recently with a '62 Jeep Wagon that the owner said ran well, but we could not get it started).

What I am saying is that any used vehicle is a gamble, but the stakes get higher with a non-running used vehicle.

Hope this helps some, Kyle...and let me know what you decide to do.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Debi:

I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler SE 4wd. The check engine light has been coming on periodically, but it won't stay on long enough to get it checked out. Lately it has been hesitating and has been stalling when sitting at a stop-light (like the idle is off). I have been told it's driver error, but I know my Jeep and I take care of it. What would be the most logical thing to replace first? I really don't want to sink too much money into it and it not fix the problem. I am thinking fuel filter. Maybe?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Debi,

On ECM (computer) controlled vehicles it is very difficult to come up with a simple answer, due to the many possibilities for the causes of each problem...such as bad sensors, weak coil pack(s), catalytic converters, fuel pumps, fuel filters, ignition wires/components, timing, and on and on....

A professional diagnostic check might locate the specific problem area, which you could choose to fix yourself to save some money, or

...you can get your own hand-held OBDII device (around $70) and try to get error codes yourself...then replace the part(s) recommended from the code.

Unfortunately, diagnosing the problem is often at least as difficult as the repair itself.

You can do the "trial and error" method of replacing the most common causes, but this can get quite expensive if you haven't gambled correctly.

In the meantime, a few simple things that you would want to do anyway, might just be the cause, and end this discussion.

1) Replace spark plugs (properly gapped).

2) Check wiring for any lose connections or crimped/exposed wires.

3) Look for any vacuum leaks...loose or disconnected vacuum hoses/tubing.

4) Make sure water/coolant level in radiator is normal. (Do NOT check this with the engine hot!)

5) Do oil change if more than 5000 miles since last change.

6) Replace the air filter.

Try these things and see if you get any improvement...before looking for more in-depth causes.

Hope this helps some Debi...and let me know how it goes.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Scot:

I have a '92 Wrangler that loses power when the fuel is below 1/2 tank. It will start and rev. but it has no power.

Fill the tank and it runs fine. It sits around a lot and only is used when we tow it behind the R.V.(for running around camp).

Any help would be great. Thanks, Scot

MY ANSWER:

Hi Scot,

Several possible causes are:

1) fuel pump malfunctioning. (replace)

2) fuel filter clogged. (replace)

3) dirty fuel lines, fuel injectors, and/or throttle body. (clean with proper solvents)

4) Dirty/contaminated fuel tank, or gasoline. (Have tank checked for debris, water or any other contaminates.)

5) Fuel filler cap may be defective. (replace)

6) Fuel return vent hose may be plugged or broken. (replace)

Hope this helps some Scot.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Maria:

The first time my Jeep died while driving in bumper to bumper traffic was after 1) the mechanic changed the water pump and ignition, and 2) the ceiling was upholstered (removed and replaced).

The Jeep continues to die after the temperature gauge reaches the middle of the 3rd quarter. If I let it cool for about 20 mins. it turns back on again.

It seems like the gauge temp. lowers as I hit the gas, while on the freeway (fast).

Help please, nobody seems to know what is the problem.

Thanks

MY ANSWER:

Hi Maria,

From what you said it appears that your Jeep is still overheating which will cause it to stall...especially in slow traffic.

A hot engine can damage internal parts as well, so it is a good thing (for the Jeep...not you) that it shuts down when it overheats.

BTW you should safely pull over before the engine stalls from overheating to prevent engine damage.

You said the water pump and ignition were changed by a mechanic.

Assuming the water pump was installed and is operating correctly the other things to look for would be:

1) the thermostat (sticking in the closed position) needs replacing

2) the radiator is dirty, rusty or has blocked passages. Will need to be cleaned out by a radiator shop or replaced.

3) low fluid level in the radiator. Check for slow leaks and loss of water/coolant.

If your mechanic's work is guaranteed I would have him check his work on the water pump (since your problem started after he replaced the water pump). If he is honest he should tell you if the water pump is working as it is supposed to.

Also, I see no connection with your headliner being replaced and your engine overheating problem.

Hope this helps some Maria...and let me know how it goes.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Patsy:

In my 1999 Wrangler TJ the oil pan and transmission are leaking some oil. My question: is this something we (as in my husband) can do OR do we need to have a "shop" do it. i.e. To replace seals?

I am planning a trip (through) several States, and want to be sure of no problems. This Jeep has been well maintained and looks like new!

Thank you for your help and hopefully suggestions.

Patsy

MY ANSWER:

Hi Patsy,

I don't know what your husband's mechanics skills are...or what tools you have available, etc.

My experience with engine/trans. leaks is like this. The hardest part of fixing a leak is knowing exactly where it is coming from in the first place.

If the oil pan gasket is bad...and the automatic transmission pan gasket is weak...then these two gaskets are not that difficult to replace yourselves (very messy though).

However, if the leak is coming from some place like the front or rear main seals then the job just gets quite a bit more involved. Same applies to the trans.

If the leak is coming from one of the shaft seals...again this is more involved to fix. Also, try to distinguish between leaked transmission fluid and motor oil to make sure there are two different leak locations.

One more thing is that some leaks may start at the valve cover (usually at the rear) and often drips down on the back of the engine, bell housing, oil pan and transmission. Feel behind the valve cover (engine cool) and determine if there is any significant oil on the rear of the head. A simple valve cover gasket replacement should stop that leak location.

Your husband or an expensive mechanic? I would do as much self testing as possible to try to isolate the leak location(s)...and then make the decision as to who should do the repair.

One helpful tip is to pressure wash the oily areas (making sure to protect intake and electronic parts) and get the areas as clean as possible. Then drive your Jeep for a while, periodically checking for leak origins. Check often because air currents, cooling fan and vibration can move fluids around quite a bit from their point of origin. Use a bright light for inspections.

Very small leaks may not be worth the effort and sometimes there are commercial additives that can help with weak gaskets as well. If the leaks are small, try lightly tightening (torque to specs. with alternate patterns) the valve cover, oil pan and transmission pan bolts.

Hope this helps some Patsy, and let me know how it goes.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Ernest:

Hi, I just saw your page and was wondering if you may answer a question. I am planning on buying a 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with 200k miles, original, one owner, and all for only $900. Is this worth it, and what is the normal life span on these Jeeps? Thank you.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Ernest,

It all depends on the overall condition of the Cherokee. I think these are great Jeeps, and if they are well cared for the 4.0L engine can run for 300,000+ miles. A one-owner Cherokee in good shape to me would be easily worth the $900, but it is ultimately your call.

Hope this helps some Ernest...and let me know what you decide to do.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Sandie:

I just got a '52 Willys, but not sure how to tell if it's a M38 or a M38A1. How do I find out?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Sandie,

The easiest way to tell the difference is the M38 has flat front fenders (like a CJ3A), and the M38A1 has rounded front fenders like the (CJ5).

See the photo below (M38 on left and M38A1 on right).

Hope this helps some Sandie.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Bill:

I have a 1960 CJ5 with a 134f engine. I just replaced the fuel pump. Is it possible to install it wrong? How do you test it?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Bill,

Yes...the mechanical fuel pump can be installed wrong. Below is a "Caution" statement from a source:

"Make certain the fuel pump arm remains in place and straight during installation. Wedging the pump to one side can damage the lever or housing."

Bill...I would take the pump off and inspect the arm and housing for any irregularity (bending, gouging, cracks. etc.)...then (if okay) replace the pump carefully aligning the arm against the the pump camshaft lobe before tightening the bolts.

You can make that alignment easier by "bumping" the engine (turning it over slowly) to get the cam lobe on its low side...to allow the pump arm to go in as far as possible when installing.

One more thing that may be at fault is the camshaft lobe itself (that operates the fuel pump) could be worn or loose. Reach in and feel for looseness or any rough irregular wear to the cam lobe. Hopefully this is not a problem, but shouldn't be ruled out.

Once installed properly you can test it by installing the intake fuel line (from the fuel tank to pump) and have someone crank the motor briefly to see if fuel is pumping to the outlet side of the pump (to carburetor). Be sure to take precautions with raw fuel by using a good catch receptacle for the gas.

Hope this helps some Bill...and please let me know how it goes.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Jared:

Hello. I hope you might know what is going on with my 1957 Willys. I just got this Jeep, and the 3 speed manual was working fine. I towed it back from a trip recently, and the gears will not work. You can feel the stick go into each gear, however, it acts like it is in neutral all the time. I hope this does not mean I lost my tranny. Any advice would be great. Thanks in advance, Jared.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jared,

Sounds to me like your Transfer-case has slipped into neutral (or was put there for towing)...which will affect your transmission operating like it is also in neutral.

See if shifting your t-case into 2-wd will solve the problem first before looking into more serious possibilities.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Zack:

Awesome site! I have a major problem. My '88 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L, 258ci, 2bbl carb starts and idle fine, but when I start to drive it loses power and shuts off, then will not start for a couple of tries. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter and I have spark on all cylinders. What other problem could it be? It will idle all day long perfect, but as soon as I drive and it gets to about 2500 rpm it dies. Please help! It would be greatly appreciated if you would tell me your guess as to what the problem might be, and how to resolve it. Thanks!

MY ANSWER:

Hi Zack,

Several possibilities here...but some of the more likely (and easiest to fix..and not in any particular order) are:

1) Carburetor out of adjustment

2) Carburetor dirty or in need of rebuild

3) Choke is sticking/stuck

4) Vacuum leak at the intake, around carburetor or vacuum hoses

5) Damaged or wet distributor cap and wires

6) Emissions system is faulty (especially a clogged catalytic converter)

7) Moisture or impurities in the fuel system

Hope this helps some Zack.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Jeremy:

I'm in the middle of buying a 2004 Jeep Rubicon and the only problem is it's automatic. The price is real good, but my question is how hard is it to switch from automatic to manual? Also, would I be able to put a 6-speed or would I have to put a 5-speed in? Thank you, Jeremy

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jeremy,

It is always easier to go from a standard shift to automatic rather than vise-versa.

When starting with an automatic you would need to change out (or use adapters on) the bell housing for the standard tranny.

You would need to set up a clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder, hydraulic lines, linkage (depending on external or internal slave cylinder) and the slave cylinder itself.

Also, since the transmission attaches to the transfer case you will need adapters (or a mated TC) for the two units.

There is probably a difference in overall length of the auto and standard trans. which would require a new or modified drive shaft as well.

The computer and sensors are different and would need to be reprogrammed or replaced.

Personally I would either stay with the automatic or hold out for a standard shift Jeep.

If the Jeep you are looking at is a really great deal, and you buy it, you might consider advertising for an equal swap with someone who has a standard Jeep and wants an automatic. Just a thought anyway Jeremy.

Hope this helps some.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Justin:

I recently bought a 1985 CJ7 and sometimes it wont start. So I thought ok, fuel pump or fuel filter, but then I realized it was getting plenty of gas. Other times it will shut off when I shift or when I'm just cruising down the road. Any ideas on what it could be?

Many Thx and Much Respect, Justin

MY ANSWER:

Hi Justin,

There are a number of possibilities, but here are some of the most likely:

1) Dirty or malfunctioning carburetor. Clean, rebuild or replace as necessary.

2) Malfunctioning automatic choke.

3) Ignition problems such as moisture in the distributor, bad ignition wires, or faulty ignition wiring in general.

4) Loose distributor and/or timing is off.

5) Bad gas or moisture in the fuel tank.

As I said there are other potential areas but eliminate these first, especially since they are relatively inexpensive and easy to repair.

Hope this helps some Justin.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from John:

Larry, I have a question for you. I'm replacing the wheel cylinders on my 1974 Jeep CJ5 and I'm looking for the pins that go from the cylinder to the brake pad. Do you know where I could find some? Nobody carries them. Thanks, John

MY ANSWER:

You are correct John regarding the difficulty finding these pins...and they are technically referred to as "Wheel Cylinder Links".

The 10" drum variety was easy to find at several online stores but the 11" was more difficult for your year CJ. Below is one source which carried both sizes (just scroll down near the bottom of the page and you will see each of these sizes).

JEEP QUESTION from W.G.:

Question on CJ5, 1980 AMC-20 axle. I'm trying to determined what gear ratio is on this axle. My axle is marked with the code Y. I can not find any reference to this code in the axle identification chart. My front axle ID tag indicates that it is a 3.07 (43-14). I also can not find any listing for this ratio on CJ5's. Is this a common gear ratio?

I have run into several others who also have a Y axle and they have not been able decode this either.

Thanks W.G.

MY ANSWER:

Hi W.G.

My research indicates that only the 3.07:1, 3.54:1 and 3.73:1 ratios were available from 1980 thru 1982 with the I-6 and V-8.

The 1980 to 1986 models reportedly had a variety of ratios such as 2.73:1, 3.07:1, 3.54:1, and 3.73:1 for the I-6 and some V-8's...and 3.54:1, 4.09:1 for the I-4's

Hope this helps some W.G.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Steven:

I have recently bought a '98 Grand Cherokee which I knew had some brake problems. The master cylinder didn't have the correct cap fitted and the discs and pads were all worn, so I put a new cap and seal on the master cylinder reservoir, replaced pads and discs all round and bled the system completely.

There don't appear to be any leaks and I have decent braking, but the pedal is still variable and the brake warning light intermittently comes on when braking. This is usually preceded by braking, the pedal goes slightly soft and I need to depress the pedal more, and there is an audible click, the light comes on and the brake pads bite.

Any ideas? I think it probably has to be the cylinder or the servo, but no idea how to tell really. Any thoughts appreciated! Steve

MY ANSWER:

Hi Steven,

I have a policy whenever I get a new (used) vehicle, and it is to replace most if not all of the brake system, because I have no idea if it has been cared for properly by the original owner(s). I did this 12 years ago on my '87 Jeep Comanche and the only things I have had to replace since then are the front pads.

It appears that your master cylinder reservoir cap was not the appropriate one, which may be a clue that a wrong or defective master cylinder is in place at the moment. I would start there by replacing the master cylinder.

Also, bleeding the system thoroughly is critical and (as I know from experience) can appear "well bled", but may still retain some air or contaminate in the brake lines. Not a bad idea to flush and refill with all new brake fluid.

There may be other causes as well, but these appear the most likely.

Hope this helps some Steven. Let me know how it goes.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Jon:

I just bought a beat up '86 Comanche X and the passenger door is in need of replacement. Will a door from an '86 Cherokee work in its place? Thanks.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jon,

The '86 Cherokee front passenger door should work just fine on the Comanche. Be sure that the Cherokee donor vehicle is a 4-door version and not the 2-door.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Ronnie:

I have a 1985 CJ7 and I am getting fire to the coil, but none to the plugs. Can you give me some suggestions on what could be wrong? I have replaced the coil, distributor cap, rotary cap, ignition module and plugs. I did recently put a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, all new bell crank assembly, and had the fly wheel turned.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Ronnie,

Recheck all of the new ignition parts assembly and wiring. Replace the coil wire to the distributor (not a bad idea to replace all of the ignition wires as well). Test to see if juice is getting to any of the plugs when the engine cranks. The new coil could also be bad. I recently bought a brand new alternator and it was real bad...took it back and the next (new) one worked fine.

Hope this helps some Ronnie.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Jason:

My father and I have been looking for a good CJ8 Scrambler to buy. I know there were around 28,000 produced. Do you know how many were built with the 258 inline 6 and an automatic? We really want an automatic and not something after-market or hacked together. We're just guessing that there may not be too many factory automatics running around for sale. If you could please help we would appreciate it.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jason,

I don't have those specific figures for the CJ8. The automatic transmission was optional for 1984 and 1985, which meant that it could be ordered from the factory, but I don't have the data as to how many were ordered (or pre-built) over the life of the Scrambler.

The standard transmission was the Borg-Warner SR-4 (manual), with the optional T-176 (manual), and the Chrysler 999 (automatic) available.

I have seen a few CJ8's for sale with automatics, but I don't know if they were converted later or not. See if the Chrysler 999 is mated to the inline 258 c.i. 6 cylinder, and it should be the factory option.

If you haven't done so, check out this forum. These guys are CJ8 owners and enthusiasts, so maybe someone there can help further:

JEEP QUESTION from Denny:

Hi,

Workin on a '95 Wrangler with a 4.0 and a AX-15 manual trans. For the first 10 - 15 minutes of driving it shifts fine, then it starts getting tough to get in gear, then not at all. Could it be worn fluid, or could it be something like the slave cylinder or master cylinder? Just seems funny that it shifts fine until it heats up. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Denny

MY ANSWER:

Hi Denny,

Some possible causes include:

1) Clutch not releasing completely. Check for proper amount of fluid in the clutch master cylinder. If low or contaminated fluid you may need to purge, refill and bleed the system of any air in the lines. Also, if the clutch and/or slave cylinder is not holding pressure, or has a leak you may need to replace it.

2) Insufficient, poor or contaminated transmission oil. Check the level and, to be sure, drain the old trans. oil and add the appropriate oil at the recommended level.

These are the most common problems Denny. Hope this helps some. Let me know.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Pete:

I HAVE A 2008 4 DOOR WRANGLER THAT I AM WORKING ON. HAVE INSTALLED JET CHIP AND COLD INTAKE SYSTEM. HAVE INSTALLED 4 INCH SUSPENSION LIFT WITH 35 INCH TIRES. THE ENGINE IS THE 3.8 V6 WHICH NOW BOGS DOWN A BIT DUE TO THE STOCK GEAR RATIO AND LARGE TIRES. IF I GO TO A 4:88 GEAR RATIO WITH MY SETUP, DO YOU THINK I CAN GET MY ENGINE POWER AND RPM TO BEHAVE PROPERLY? THANKS!

MY ANSWER:

Hi Pete,

You didn't state whether you had the standard or automatic transmission...or whether you had a Rubicon model or not.

Either way the 3.8L V6 only churns out a little over 200 h.p. in stock form..and about 237 lb-ft torque. With the heavier 4-door (about 4200 lbs.), longer wheelbase and now larger tires, the little engine is pushing around some pretty good weight and rolling resistance.

The stock axle ratios should be:

3.21 to 1 (standard with the 6-spd. manual trans.), or

3.73 to 1 (optional with the 6-spd. manual), or

4.10 to 1 (standard with the Rubicon 6-spd. manual), or

3.73 to 1 (standard with the 4-spd. automatic), or

4.10 to 1 (standard in the Rubicon with the 4-spd. automatic trans.)

Going to the 4.88 to 1 (or even the 4.10 to 1) ratio should give you all the punch you need to better move those 35's on the trails...and to get the most out of your overdrive on the highway. Even the old 4 cylinders were able to increase their performances with higher (numeric) ratio (lower gearing) axles.

Hope this helps some Pete...and if you get a chance why not send a photo and description/story of your Wrangler here:

JEEP QUESTION from Josh:

I was thinking of buying an '83 J-10 with 123,000 miles for $1000.00 Truck looks to be rust free except around the fender wells, but I can't find any info on engine and transmission combos for that year. It has an 4.1 inline six with a rebuilt 4 speed and I didn't think that was original.

Please help me with the info I need so I don't get ripped ...Thanks for your help!

MY ANSWER:

Hi Josh,

According to my research the 1983 J-trucks had one of three available engines from the factory:

1) 258 ci straight six

2) 304 ci V8

3) 360 ci V8 or,

4) 401 ci V8

Available transmissions were:

1) 4 spd. Warner T-18 (manual)

2) 4 spd. Tremec T-176 (manual) or,

3) 3 spd Chrysler 727 (automatic)

Hope this helps some Josh. If you get a chance why not send a photo and description of your J-10 (if you decide to buy it) here:

JEEP QUESTION from Jeanne:

We have a 2008 4 door Wrangler and twice while driving it has shimmied out of control (extreme, as if in an earthquake or caught in a rut) causing us to pull over. Stopping took care of the problem and just couldn't figure it out, but now its happened again. Have you heard of anyone else having this problem?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jeanne,

Your '08 JK Wrangler Unlimited appears to have a problem common with many Jeeps non-technically called "Death Wobble". If your Jeep has non-standard sized tires (larger) and is lifted (suspension lift) you stand a pretty good chance of having the shimmy problem called Death Wobble.

However, even totally stock Jeeps are known to show these symptoms at times as well.

There are many possible causes and solutions, but most have something to do with front alignment, tires out of balance, worn tires, steering component failure, brake warpage and/or suspension problems.

The good news is that it can be fixed. The bad news is that it is often difficult to diagnose the exact cause. Some folks take the most common causes and fix those things sort of trial and error style.

If your Jeep is still under warranty I would take it back to the dealer to fix it. If no warranty I would find a good reputable 4x4 shop with mechanics who are familiar with these Jeep quirks and how to diagnose and fix them.

Here is a good article that explains some of the most common causes and solutions. It generally refers to all Jeep models, but especially the Wrangler.

JEEP QUESTION from Bob:

I was happy to see your site, as I have been searching, in vain, for the original wheel/tire size for my recently purchased 1960 Willys 4x4 wagon.

When I bought it this last weekend, it had tires of two different sizes and three different manufacturers; the sizes are 7:00 x 15, and 8:45 x 15. I've seen a few references to 16 inch wheels and tires, but nothing specific. I've been to tire stores, and they've never heard of a Willys, and the 4 wheeler store here is not familiar with it either.

Any assistance you could provide would be greatly appreciated. (I plan to restore it) Thanks, Bob

MY ANSWER:

Hi Bob,

My research for the standard/optional wheel and tire sizes for Willys Wagons from 1949 through 1965 are as follows:

6.00-15 (std)

6.50-15 (opt)

6.70-15 (opt)

Wheel sizes and widths on the wagons were:

15x4 (std)

15x4.50 (opt)

The Willys pickup trucks (not the wagons) of that era had a 16 inch wheel (std) with 6.50-16 tires (std) and 6.00-16 tires (opt). These trucks had several options of 7.00-15 and 7.60-15. Wheel widths were 16x5 (std) and 16x4.50 (opt) on the trucks.

Hope this helps some Bob..and if you get a chance why not send a good photo and description of your '60 Willys Wagon here:

JEEP QUESTION from Chip:

I have a Jeep CJ5 1979. I have 4:10 gears in a AMC 20. It starts, idles and runs awesome. I JUST BOUGHT IT FROM A FRIEND WHO IS THE SECOND OWNER.

When I go thru water or mud it just has no power like it does not want to go. It has a 304 V8 in it so it should go thru mud trails and water with no problem. I have 36" Super Swampers on it.

Do you think if I change the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor will help with gaining more power? These things have not been changed in years. Thanks for your help.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Chip,

Running any vehicle through mud and water can be rough on electronics. You can also suck water into the transmission vent which will affect the gears.

Your idea of replacing the electronic components (tune-up) is warranted and a good idea even if that may or may not be your primary problem.

Water in the axles, differential cases, transmission, transfer case can reek havoc on drive train parts and performance. Might be a good idea to change the gear lube in all of these major components after wheeling in the mud and water.

Moisture in the distributor will affect the engine performance and often make it unstartable (is that a word?).

Also, take extra care not to get water in the carb or intake which can seize the engine.

Try to seal electronic parts from moisture as much as possible, consider a snorkel, and change the fluids often if you continue to run in the muck and water.

Another thing to consider is your Jeeps limitations and the terrain you are navigating. The deeper the mud, muck and water the more motor, gearing and traction you will need.

Take care,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Karen:

I am currently looking at a 1999 Jeep Wrangler TJ/SE with 111,000 miles on it. I am a female with no knowledge of Jeeps and I was wondering is that too many miles? I know that Jeeps can run a long time with many miles, but I just don't want to get something that is not worth it. The Jeep seems to have an exhaust leak that the dealership said they would definitely fix. They are asking $6500.00. Is this a good deal or am I being taken? Thanks!

MY ANSWER:

Hi Karen,

If the Jeep you described is in overall good condition (no signs of abuse) that particular mileage is not bad for the price. The 4.0L 6 cylinder engine is known to get more than 300,000 miles if well taken care of. The 4 cylinder engine is a bit under powered, but has pretty good longevity as well.

Here are some tips for what to look for when considering a used Jeep:

JEEP QUESTION from Rose:

We recently purchased a 1974 Jeep J10 4WD pickup truck. The fuel gauge is not working. Would you know what the fuel tank capacity is?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Rose,

The original fuel tank capacity is supposed to be 19 Gallons, but who knows if the tank is original or not?

You can get a pretty accurate reading by carefully draining the tank and then refilling it to full capacity, and note how many gallons went in.

However, fixing/replacing the gauge can sure give you a better sense of security.

Good luck,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Chris:

Hi,

I have an '85 CJ7. Whenever I fill it up with gas it seems to spit gas back out the filler tube. What causes this? Clogged Vent line? How do I remedy this?

Thanks!!

MY ANSWER:

Hi Chris,

I think you are on the right track with the filler vent hose (tube). This "spitting" gas usually occurs when the vent tube is plugged or crimped.

Follow your fuel filler hose from the cap all the way to the tank. The vent tube should be attached to the main filler hose and also attached toward the top of the gas tank on the other end.

Carefully remove this vent tube (no sparks or heat anywhere near this area) and check for blockages, crimping and cracking/wear.

Then replace if needed.

Good luck Chris,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Bob:

Hi,

I have a 1967 CJ5 Jeep with 225 V-6. My problem is the oil is leaking like a sieve. There is a constant drip without the motor running that pretty much drains the motor. Do you have any ideas?

Thanks Bob

MY ANSWER:

Hi Bob,

Sounds like a really bad leak somewhere. (my understatement)

Have you been able to inspect all around the engine (especially when running) to see approximately where the flow is coming from?

"Leaking like a sieve" while the motor is not running would possibly indicate:

1. a bad seal in the oil pan drain plug
2. a hole in the oil pan
3. a bad oil pan gasket
4. a bad front or rear main seal
5. a severely cracked block

A most common location for oil leaks is at the valve covers where the gaskets are bad. A plugged PCV valve will accelerate the valve cover leakage...but not so much while the engine is not running.

If the engine is covered in grimy dirt and oil try cleaning the engine with a good engine cleaner (covering the carb, distributor and major electronics).

Then with a bright light inspect the engine for oil leaks with it running at idle. Be careful but also look underneath the Jeep especially around the oil pan.

Let me know if you pin this leak down. I am curious to know where it is originating.

Thanks,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Chris:

Hi, I have a Jeep. It's an odd one. I'm told it's an M38A1, but it was sold new in 1954.

The parts people tell me they think it's a CJ5 but they don't recognize the number. It's a 6 volt with overhead wipers and a 4 pot engine. It's in a rough state, but I'm working on it. Maybe it's another CJ4?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Chris,

The M38A1 was a military Jeep built from 1952 through 1957. It became the model for the CJ5 civilian Jeep which debuted in late 1954 as a 1955 model.

There was only one American made (prototype) CJ4 built around 1950. There was quite a lot of confusion around this era due to the Korean war which hampered Willys-Overland's plans to produce more civilian type Jeeps. Therefore the M38A1 took precedence because of the war effort, until the CJ5 came about after the war for civilian purchase.

The serial # for the M38A1 was located on a military data plate attached to the dashboard. The prefix started with "MD" which indicated a M38A1.

The serial # for the early CJ5 is located on a plate riveted to the firewall on the driver's side in the engine compartment. The original M38A1 also had a 24 volt electrical system.

Larry

Chris' Follow-up Response:

Thank you very much for the info.

The Vin plate is on the fire wall in the engine bay in front of the driver as you described. I thought the CJ5 was a 12 volt and mine is a 6 volt. Is this significant? I was hoping I had found a rare beast, but it now looks like all I have is a standard vintage rough old banger in need of a make over.

Story of my life. Chris

My Reply

Chris...The '54/'55 is the very first of the CJ5 models. There were only 17,016 units produced for the year 1955. By comparison there were 75,428 M38A1 units built for the US Military between 1952 and 1955. These early models are getting rarer and rarer. Can't say if they will ever have great collectors value..but you have a fairly rare model...especially if it has reasonable restoration potential.

Also, the original '55 and '56 CJ5's were 6 volt systems and starting in 1957 CJ5's were converted to 12 volt.

I still kick myself for selling my 1953 M38A1...and that seems to be the story of my life..LOL!

Take care Chris and send a photo and a story here if you get a chance:

JEEP QUESTION from Todd:

I have a 1955 CJ5 Willys that I have completely restored, with just a couple items to revisit. I'm very pleased with the outcome, however I wish I could get a little more speed.

The question I have is, do they really have a simple overdrive product that will enhance the speed? If not, how would someone increase the speed from the now 50+ mph to maybe in the 60's? Thanks, Todd

MY ANSWER:

Hi Todd,

Had the same problem with my M38A1 but I was lucky to even get 45 mph without over-revving the engine. I sold it before I could do anything with an overdrive or re-gearing.

Outside of finding an aftermarket overdrive unit, swapping in a different transmission with overdrive, or changing out the differential gears ratio I don't know of any easy or simple way to get better top end.

Check this site out for used O/D units:

JEEP QUESTION from Nancy:

I own a 2006 Jeep Liberty and love it, but I want to do my own tune-ups. So, I figured out how to change my oil and oil filter, air filter, window wash, power steering, but not sure about the break fluid and transmission fluid... also any other tips to keep my jeep tuned and on the road..

MY ANSWER:

Hi Nancy,

Good for you taking the initiative to service your own Jeep. You will save tons of money over time as well as knowing the Jeep is being properly maintained.

I would suggest you make a small investment in a service manual designed for your specific Jeep Liberty. It will contain what you need to know about tune-ups and recommended service requirements...with a bunch more involved mechanics (which you may need at some point).

I found this site if you would like to order an online Service/Repair manual (about $16.95 USD) for your Liberty. Not an endorsement..just a suggestion.

JEEP QUESTION from Greg:

How many 1966 Jeep Tuxedo Parks were built with a 3.7L (Dauntless 225) V6? Can you tell me what factory options it has? SN 8322A16754

MY ANSWER:

Hi Greg,

The "Dauntless" Buick 225 ci (3.7L) V6 was introduced as an option in the CJ5 and CJ6 in 1966.

The Tuxedo Park packages began life in 1961 and by 1964 there was a new Tuxedo Park designation called the CJ5A and CJ6A Mark IV. The Mark IV's were built through 1967. A total of around 7,394 CJ5A's and 459 CJ6A's were reportedly built.

I don't have the data on how many Tuxedo Parks were sold with the optional V6, but my research shows that they are fairly rare and can be valuable if in good condition.

Factory standard and optional features included more chromed exterior hardware, 60/40 bench seat up front (optional bucket seats), column shifter, single lever transfer case control, special dual-rate springs, improved servo-type brakes, turbine style wheel covers, and various other options not available on the other "Universal" models of the time.

Hope that helps some Greg. If you have a Tuxedo Park Jeep why not send a photo and description here:

JEEP QUESTION from Conrad:

JEEP QUESTION from Richard:

I'm planning to purchase a used Jeep, specifically Willys Low bonnet. Can you help me with giving your thoughts on what will be a good engine to fix in it?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Richard,

The standard low hood CJ2A and CJ3A came with the 4 cyl., L-head, 134.2 ci engine. Bypassing the high hood CJ3B with the 4 cyl. F-head engine...the early Willys CJ5 and CJ6 also ran the F-head engine Standard, but with optional 225 ci V6 and even an optional 192.2 ci 4 cyl. diesel motor.

These original motors are easy to work on, but some parts may be difficult to locate.

If you plan on an engine swap this is a whole new ballgame, for the possibilities are many.

I would suggest you get involved with a specific forum website or two that deal with your interests. Here are several possibilities:

JEEP QUESTION from Randy:

Does a '99 wrangler 5 speed 4.0L have a fuel filter? Where is it?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Randy,

From what I can tell the '99 Wrangler does not have a simple inline fuel filter (Oh..for the good old days!). The only fuel filter(s) appear to be located inside the fuel tank as quoted here:

"This truck has two fuel filters, both are at the fuel tank and require the tank to be dropped. One fuel filter is the sock-filter at the bottom of the fuel pump and can only be replaced if the fuel pump module is replaced as one unit. The other is a silver canister located at the top of the module. It is held in place with a stainless steel band, and has your feed line attached to it by a plastic clip. The silver canister is a fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator and can only be found at a Jeep dealer for around $70.00."

Randy...you might find an aftermarket unit other than through the Jeep dealer if you shop around online, or at your local discount parts store.

Good luck,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Ryan:

My '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.2L V8 sputters and stalls when I accelerate. I've replaced the fuel pump and filter with no change. Please help me figure this out. Thanks for your time.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Ryan,

This is often a common problem with older vehicles.

Just my non-professional opinion but I would look for these (in no particular order):

1) vacuum leaks,

2) clogged air filter,

3) bad EGR,

4) weak fuel pump (you've fixed this already),

5) leaking head gasket,

6) worn timing chain,

7) poor timing,

8) clogged catalytic converter,

9) moisture in or around the distributor cap,

10) dirty or clogged injectors and/or throttle body, or

11) bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

One thing often overlooked with hesitation problems is faulty spark plug wires and/or spark plugs. I was once surprised how one bad ignition wire could cause a vehicle to run so poorly.

I would start with a complete tune-up including ignition wires.

Then clean the throttle body and injectors. Replace air filter.

Then disconnect the catalytic converter (temporary testing) to see if that solves the problem. If it does then get a new catalytic converter installed.

Then I would run an OBD I test to see if any sensor codes are suggested..followed by replacement as necessary.

Hope that helps Ryan. Let me know when you get this problem fixed. I'm always curious to know what finally worked.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Jenna:

Help! My '88 Jeep Wrangler won't start but has gas an spark.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jenna,

There are a lot of possible answers to your question. Some may sound too obvious while others may require professional help. Here is a list of common problems which won't allow your engine to start:

1) Empty fuel tank
2) Low battery
3) Clogged fuel filter or fuel lines
4) Faulty fuel pump
5) Clogged gas tank vent lines
6) Faulty distributor components
7) Low cylinder compression
8) Water in fuel line
9) Bad ignition coil
10) Carburetor faulty, out of adjustment, bad choke or clogged jets
11) Wet or damaged ignition components
12) Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit
13) Fouled, burned or poorly gapped spark plugs
14) Ignition timing is off
15) Timing chain is broken or significantly worn

I hope this gives you some helpful ideas Jenna. Please let me know if any of the above suggestions applied.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Matt:

I'm in the market for a Jeep, and I am looking at a '93 Sahara.

What are your suggestions? What should I look for? Do you have any deals for the military?

Any way, thank you for your support, and your website...Matt

MY ANSWER:

Hi Matt,

Just like you I am also looking for a used Wrangler to go along with my Comanche MJ.

I don't know where you are from, but I have found that here in Texas most all Wranglers and CJ's are quite popular.

I also have noticed that these things are seasonal. An example is that in the Spring (now) the availability of Wranglers drops, while the prices go UP significantly.

Conversely, in the Wintertime availability seems to rise while prices tend to fall. This is the concept of supply and demand...because it seems everyone wants a Wrangler in the warmer weather..but not as much in the colder weather.

Regarding your question I can only speak for myself because I have thought long and hard about what type of Wrangler I really want. Here is what I have decided for me. I want my Wrangler to:

1) be no more than $5000 to $6000 dollars;

2) be between the years 1994 and 2000 (prefer 1997 to 1999)

3) have the 4.0L six cylinder engine instead of the 4 cyl.

4) have the full hard doors with roll up windows

5) have a good quality soft top, or both hard and soft top

6) have less than 150,000 miles on the engine/drivetrain

7) have the 5 spd. manual transmission

8) have a good working A/C (gets really hot and humid here in Texas)

9) have no significant leaks anywhere

10) have no signs of abuse or wrecks on body, undercarriage and/or interior

11) have no severe lifts on body or suspension (most Jeeps get screwed up by their owners doing this..I would rather do this myself if needed)

12) have good tires (can add $700 to $1200 to replace tires)

13) have all gauges and accessories in working order

14) feel good when I test drive it (no odd noises, bumps, shakes, hesitation, etc.)

15) have clear, clean title from my State (no blue or salvage titles..or bill of sale)

Now I know there is no Jeep that will completely meet all of these requirements, but I use these as a benchmarks..looking to meet most of them. (If you want to know why I chose each of these criteria for selecting a Jeep just let me know. I would be glad to tell you.)

I am very picky, because I have been burned before and try hard not to let that happen again.

As far as deals for the Military I'm sure their are dealerships that may offer discounts for Servicemen and women, but that may apply mainly to new Jeeps. Worth checking out though.

Matt, you sound like you may be active military. If so, I want to personally thank you for your service to our country...especially now in our fight against terrorism.

I hope this helped you some. Let me know what Jeep you finally get and shoot me a picture and a story for the website here at:

JEEP QUESTION from Frank:

Great site man! Got a quick question. The slave cylinder went out in my '88 Wrangler and has been replaced twice with new slave cylinders. What is causing this? At my wits end. Any help would be appreciated.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Frank,

I'm not exactly sure why your slave cylinder is failing, but others seem to have the same problem on their '87 through '89 Wranglers and Cherokees.

Some have suggested using only original Chrysler parts...and to replace both the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder at the same time. Be sure to purge all of the old fluid from the entire system...and then replace with the proper fresh fluid. Bleed the system and you should be good to go. Also make sure all of your lines are good with no leaks or kinks.

There are no guarantees that any of this will hold up, but it always seems to help replacing the entire system in the long run.

Good luck,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Colleen:

I am looking for information/web site about old Jeep Cherokees. I have a 1975 Jeep Cherokee and I want to sell it, have no idea what it is worth?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Colleen,

The value of any vehicle depends on a number of things...the most important ones are:

1) vehicle's condition (body, trim, interior, mechanics, engine, trans, drive train, etc.)

2) demand for that particular vehicle

3) supply of that vehicle in the marketplace ('75 Cherokees are fairly rare but demand may be low)

4) reasonable asking price compared with other FSJ Cherokees/Wagoneers being sold in a similar condition.

5) location of the vehicle (is it located in a large metropolitan area with many potential buyers...or is it so far from potential buyers as to not generate much interest?)

Colleen...I can't exactly tell you what your Cherokee is worth without knowing a lot of details...but I can tell you where to get some good advice from those who are Full Size Jeep (FSJ) owners and enthusiasts. You will need to join their forum (free) and once there ask all the questions you want about your Jeep. It would help to upload a few photos on the forum, when allowed, to give the participants a good visual look, as well as include lots of details. Here's the site:

JEEP QUESTION from Cody:

Why would my Jeep Wrangler '06 model with 26,000 miles and a 4 inch skyjacker lift, with 33x10.50x15 tires, shake while braking and accelerating between 40 and 55mph in the front?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Cody,

Sounds like you have the dreaded "death wobble" which is often too common with Jeeps..especially those with larger tires and suspension lifts.

Anytime steering and suspension geometry are altered may require some special "tweaking" to get things operating appropriately. Also, there are front end alignment, tire wear, broken or worn linkage/ball joints, warped brake rotors, and more issues which could be causing your Wrangler's problems.

It is often hard to diagnose the specific cause(s), but I suggest doing an online search for "death wobble remedies", or going to a Jeep specialist to check out the various potential culprits.

Good luck and let me know if you get this problem fixed.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Melanie:

I have a question. I recently filled my 1990 Jeep Cherokee with fuel. Two days later, it broke down. I need to get that fuel out now. Is there an anti siphon valve on this old of a model?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Melanie,

I don't think there is any anti-siphon device on these. However, the best way to find out is to run a siphon hose into the tank and see if it works. If the hose won't reach the bottom of the tank there may be a screen of sorts in the filler tube. If that's the case you may need to remove the filler tube to get directly into the tank with your siphon tube.

Be very careful with anything related to gasoline. Sparks from friction can cause explosions and serious damage.

Good luck,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Johnny:

What are the dimensional differences between a CJ5 and a CJ7? Wheelbase? Track width? Length of tub? Distance from top of windshield to top of tailgate? Length, width and anything else you could tell me. Thank you.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Johnny,

Here are the general dimensions:

OVERALL LENGTH
CJ5 = 139 in.

CJ7 ('75 thru '81) = 148 in. ('82 thru '83) = 153.2 in.

WHEELBASE
CJ5 ('54 thru '72) = 81 in. ('73 thru '83) = 84 in.

CJ7 = 93.5 in.

WIDTH
CJ5 = 59.9 in.

CJ7 = 68.6 in.

HEIGHT
CJ5 = 68 in.

CJ7 = 69 in.

Hope that helps some Johnny!

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Joe:

I own a 1991 Jeep Cherokee XJ with the 4.0L. When I start my vehicle it idles very lumpy and has a problem running for about 10-15 seconds, then my check engine light comes on and it begins to idle normally. The check engine light then stays on.

My issue is that once the check engine light is on I feel a loss of power and the engine hits the rev limiter at about 3500 rpm which makes driving difficult. I can sort of get by the check engine light by starting the jeep and revving it in that first 10-15 secs. to keep the motor from dying out and then throwing it into gear while the rpms are still a bit higher.

Doing this allows me to feel the normal power regained. Driving and shifting once again becomes normal and the rev limiter is hit at 5500-6000 rpm as usual. But as soon as I come to the first stop sign or red light and the motor needs to idle it sounds like it is about to die out, the check engine light comes on and the problem persists.

I'm hoping I can get pointed in the right direction to fix this problem.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Joe,

Have you run an OBD 1 scan to see what codes are registered due to the "check engine" light being triggered. That might isolate the specific problem.

Without isolating the diagnostic code there are many possibilities for your XJ's problems. First, not knowing how your XJ ran prior to the current problem, nor what might have contributed to the problem, such as getting excessive water on the engine, there will be much trial and error.

Just my non-professional opinions but I would look for vacuum leaks, clogged air filter, bad EGR, weak fuel pump, leaking head gasket, worn timing chain, poor timing, clogged catalytic converter, moisture in or around the distributor cap, dirty or clogged injectors and/or throttle body, or bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

One thing often overlooked with idle problems is faulty spark plug wires and/or spark plugs. I was once surprised how one bad ignition wire could cause a vehicle to run so poorly.

Hope that gives you a start on what to look for Joe. There may be other causes, but these are the most likely possibilities.

Good luck and let me know how things go with your Cherokee.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Ron:

'89 Cherokee,4.0, inline 6, fuel injection problem. Sat all winter, started OK, let sit for an hour, would not start, it sounded as if cylinders might be filling with fuel because of compression sound. Some cylinders did have fuel in them, cleaned out, but same problem occurred when key turned on.

Have taken off all injector ignitors, when key turned on, no more fuel being pumped into the cylinders. Is it possible I have a computer problem? What else would you suggest I check? Thanks, Ron

MY ANSWER:

Hi Ron,

I am only a shade tree mechanic, so with that in mind you can take these suggestions with a grain of salt.

There are many possibilities for the problems you described, but I would start by eliminating as many potential causes as possible.

Since your Jeep sat all winter there could be a fuel problem as old gas tends to clog up lines and injectors as well as the throttle body itself with varnish. Clean all thoroughly.

What about the fuel pump? Fuel not getting to the injectors sounds fishy.

Don't forget any inline fuel filters also. They should be replaced anyway.

Water may have condensed in the gas tank which contaminated the fuel. Drain and replace with fresh gas.

Check all loose or disconnected wiring. Replace or reconnect.

Timing chain failure or poor valve timing. Check timing.

Any carbon build-up on the plugs? Replace them as well. Check the appropriate gap.

Replace ignition wires with a new set.

An electrical problem could be the culprit, but these diagnostics are difficult to pin down without expert help...and they're out of my comfort zone.

I hope that gives you some ideas to help you get the Cherokee running again. Like I said there are many possible causes, however I like to eliminate the most obvious ones myself with as little effort, time and money as possible...hopefully not having to turn it all over to a certified mechanic.

Good luck Ron and keep me informed.

Larry

Note: Ron wrote again to inform me that he was right on the money about the computer being the primary problem.

JEEP QUESTION from Jeff:

My factory hardtop on my 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport has faded over the years. Is there a way to bring back the nice black look of a new top?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jeff,

Other than repainting your hardtop I would suggest using Penetrol which has been shown to work as a paint additive, or alone as a restorer of fiberglass and plastics/rubber(even fender flares). It also has many marine type uses which says something about the durability. I have not personally used Penetrol, but have heard other Jeepers talk about it's positive merits.

Good luck,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Robert:

I have a 1976 CJ7 304 3-speed with 32x11.50x15 wheels. Rides sort rough and handles sort of rough. It has 5" shackles on the front and 3" on the rear.

Questions: Do I need to lower it to get a better ride? Or maybe my shocks might be the wrong size? What size shocks would I need? And last question regarding the steering stabilizer...could it be bad?

Another Jeep I have is a 1984 CJ7 360 4-speed. I crank it about every two weeks and I find I have to pump the gas pedal numerous times, and it takes about 30 seconds to fire off. No problem after it warms up, just when it sits there for a week or two. Was wondering why it doesn't fire off immediately? Thanks......Robert

MY ANSWER:

Hi Robert,

The old CJ's were notorious for riding rough even in stock configuration. Any changes to the suspension may have good or bad effect depending on a number of variables...most of which would require a specialist/expert to diagnose the problems or tune up the overall suspension.

However, I would start with the condition and length of the shocks, and also look at the shackles to make sure they are allowing the spring packs to move freely without binding. The shackle bolts could be too tight or the bushings worn out...which may reduce the springs ability to flex properly.

As to the '84 CJ7, which I assume is carbureted, I would think that it would be normal to require time to prime the carb after sitting for a couple of weeks at a time. Check the choke also to see if it is working properly.

Good luck Robert.

Thanks,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Craig:

Hi Larry, I was wondering can a 1990 YJ body fit on a 1970 something model CJ7 frame or chassis?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Craig,

Never done any body swaps Craig...but I think almost anything can be done with good measuring, cutting and fabrication. However, it is my understanding that the YJ's chassis and suspension are much superior to the CJ's..which you may want to consider before undertaking this swap.

Anyway, I would take very close measurements of the mounting points on the YJ body and the CJ7 Frame.

Also need to look at possibly relocating various parts like the gas tank and other attach points on both the frame and body. Will the YJ hump allow clearance for the CJ7 trans/transfer case and shifters? What about the engine compartment?

Need to look at clearance in the wheel wells also.

Here are some specs and dimensions for both vehicles which might help some:

CJ7 Wheelbase = 93.5 inches
Overall Length = 144.3 inches
Overall Width = 70.5 inches

YJ Wheelbase = 93.4 inches
Overall Length = 152 inches
Overall width = 66 inches

Good planning and skill may do the trick. Let me know how it turns out.

Thanks,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from John:

Hi there. After three years searching I have purchased a 1961 Willys Kaiser Jeep, Serial no.5516820730, vehicle no. 6-226 4wd 1524. Is this a CJ5?

I am also missing complete drivers side window winder, door channel mechanism & RHS quarter vent window. Can anyone help me out with these parts? Would also like to purchase a set of original wheels.

MY ANSWER:

Hi John,

According to my research the numbers you provided indicate as follows:

1st 3 digits: 551 means Cab and Chassis truck;

4th digit: 6 means six cylinder engine; and,

5th digit: 8 means four-wheel drive.

The 6-226 means the 226.2 cubic inch 6 cylinder L-head motor.

Sounds like you have a '61 Kaiser Willys Pickup.

Check out various Jeep/Willys/Kaiser Willys forum sites for parts and restoration info:

JEEP QUESTION from Raymond:

My daughter's 1991 4.0 high output motor lost the serpentine belt. The problem is I can't find the tensioner on this motor. Do I need to unloosen a power steering bracket or an alternator bracket, or something else? Do I NEED to loosen the Idler pulley? Please help I am completely stumped. Thank You for any information.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Raymond,

Loosen the two bolts on the power steering pump (one above the pulley and one below the pulley).

There is an adjusting bolt on the end of the power steering bracket (bottom right) that allows the pump to move in and out.

This is how you loosen and tighten the serpentine belt..by turning the adjusting bolt.

JEEP QUESTION from Jason:

I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee Classic with a 3 inch lift on it. I am currently running 33 x 9.5 BF Goodrich all terrain tires and I do not rub even when I off road, but its close. I was wondering what is the biggest tire size i can fit without rubbing? Do you think I can fit a 32 x 11.5 if I get different wheels, or even a 33 x 12.5? If you think this is possible what wheel size do you recommend without any rubbing to occur?

MY ANSWER:

Hi Jason,

JEEP QUESTION from John:

I have a 1988 Jeep Comanche pickup with a 4.0L engine. It is fuel injected and when starting it, it cranks too long and I also have to pump the gas a couple of times before it starts. Is there anything I can check, or needs to be done to correct this? Thanks.

MY ANSWER:

Hi John,

To be absolutely sure you should take your '88 Comanche to a good certified reputable mechanic (which I am not..a "certified mechanic"..that is).

However, if you tinker with your own vehicles like I do you:

1) might check to see if the fuel pump is pumping gas to the fuel injectors;

2) replace the fuel line filter;

3) make sure the injectors aren't clogged with dirt or varnish;

4) clean up the throttle body of dirt and varnish;

5) check the air cleaner for any restrictions and replace if necessary.

6) check for vacuum leaks in hoses, at the intake manifold and/or the throttle body base.

I had #3 and #4 happen to my '87 Comanche some time ago and had to take it to a mechanic to find the problem at the time. Now I know what to look for because I grilled the mechanic so that I could fix the problem if it happened again.

JEEP QUESTION from Scott:

How do I verify if the water pump is working correctly on my 1990 Jeep Cherokee? Should it always be pumping coolant through the res. tank? Is it possible that the thermostat is bad?

Thanks for your help.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Scott,

First of all I am not a certified mechanic and I only work on my own vehicles.

With that said I would suggest that if your Cherokee is overheating several things could be happening: 1) stuck (partially or fully closed) or bad thermostat; 2) bad water pump; or, 3) clogged radiator.

If the thermostat is stuck closed or partially closed there will be little or no movement of coolant throughout the system (warm engine). The cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to remove the thermostat and run the engine to see if it still overheats without it. Then replace the thermostat with a new one anyway after you have removed the old one.

If the Jeep still overheats without a thermostat, then you can suspect the water pump or the radiator...or possibly both.

I had to have my radiator on my '87 Comanche rodded out some time ago due to crud in the lines. A good radiator shop can do this fairly cheaply.

If you do your own work the cost of a new water pump and thermostat is not too bad...and you will have peace of mind that your cooling system is in good shape.

Hope that helps some Scott.

Good luck,

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Ernie:

Have you heard of the loss of gas mileage in the Jeep Liberty 2006 after having the ECM updated by the dealer? My gas mileage went from 18-22 down to 14-18 MPG. I was just wondering if this seemed to be normal.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Ernie,

As I have stated before I am not a certified mechanic..and ECM's are mostly out of my league.

With that said I do know that onboard computers are responsible for making many adjustments to things such as fuel mixture, timing and air intake...any of which can affect fuel economy.

With all of the EPA regulations (and more so in California) it would not surprise me to see "updates" added on with factory servicing...to satisfy the air quality fanatics.

I don't know where you are located, but even gasoline formulas for the Winter season can lower gas mileage as gotten from this quote: "Many regions in the U.S. (perhaps all regions) have different formulations of gasoline for the winter and summer months. Winter gasoline is partially oxygenated to compensate for higher emissions when a car's engine is cold. In other words, winter gasoline is slightly "pre-burned" to reduce emissions and it does not have as much energy as summer gasoline. This causes a slight drop in gas mileage in the winter months, sometimes as much as 1-2 miles per gallon".

I would suggest taking your Liberty back to the dealer with the same question you asked here...and NO it doesn't seem "normal" to have a 4 mpg drop in fuel economy after what you have described...all other things being equal.

Good Luck and let me know how it goes.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION about tires from Bo:

Just bought a 1991 Jeep Wrangler 4 cyl. I have installed a 4" lift to improve mudding capabilities.

Is a 33 x 12.5 tire too big for a 4 cyl? Will it rob too much power? Should I look at 33 x 10.5, or a 32 x 11.5?

I will use the jeep approx 1/2 on & 1/2 off road.

MY ANSWER:

That's a great question Bo.

I know that if you asked 10 Jeep people the same question you might get 10 different answers...so with that in mind I'm going to tell you how I would approach the tire and wheel selection if I had your '91 YJ.

First, I assume you have the stock axles, which are not the strongest axles for heavy off road use such as tough rock crawling. However, it is my understanding that the 4 cylinder Jeeps had lower axle gear ratios (higher numerically) which would compensate for the smaller engine's torque and horsepower. You might still notice some power loss with the larger tires.

JEEP QUESTION from Irene:

I am interested in a Jeep Cherokee XJ, 1995 4.0L engine with 185 hp. I am interested but I am worried about the fuel consumption. I have to go off road. Is this a high petrol consumer?

I have until the weekend to give a reply to seller. Thank you.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Irene,

First, the '95 Jeep Cherokee XJ is a fine all around vehicle for everyday driving as well as off road use. You didn't mention whether the Cherokee was 4 wheel drive or not..but I would recommend the 4x4 over 2 wheel drive if you are going to be driving in conditions where you need the most traction.

If this vehicle is in good shape mechanically it should get between 16 to 21 miles per gallon in everyday driving (4x4 and 4x2 stats are roughly similar)...with the higher numbers being mostly highway use.

In off road conditions these statistics can vary greatly depending upon the type of surfaces traveled...and how you as the driver keep your foot into the accelerator.

On ice and snow you may not see much difference in MPG's because you will be driving slow and easy (hopefully). Same thing with flat/smooth surfaced dirt roads. A lot of stop-and-go driving also leads to reduced mileage.

However, if you take the Cherokee off road into mountainous, hilly, or extremely rough surfaces gas mileage will drop depending on how hard the vehicle is stressed while traversing these areas...and how long you are driving in these conditions.

Shouldn't worry too much Irene because all vehicles suffer reduced gas mileage in rough driving conditions.

There are a few good SUV type vehicles out there, but I may be looking for a good 4x4 Jeep Cherokee XJ myself in the near future, because my research indicates that you can get the best bang-for-your-buck with a good used XJ. Also, I am a bit biased about Jeeps anyway.

Hope this was helpful Irene. Please let me know how this deal turns out...and if you buy it maybe send me a photo and I'll put it on the website.

Larry

JEEP QUESTION from Lisa:

I have a 1959 Willys serial # 57548 We are trying to find out if it is a CJ3B or a CJ5. How can we find this out? We are trying to buy a new soft top for it, and they need to know the body type.

Thanks for any help you can give.

MY ANSWER:

Hi Lisa,

According to my research the 1959 CJ3B had serial #'s starting at 48248 and ending at 57547.

You might have an early 1960 model CJ3B because the serial #'s start at 57548 (your serial number exactly) and ending at 67473.

The 1959 and 1960 CJ5's had serial numbers from 82878 through 119,359.

So it would appear that you have a late 1959 or early 1960 CJ3B. The 3B's also have the flat front fenders as opposed to the rounded front fenders of the CJ5...as well as the high hood to accommodate the taller F-head engine.

Hope that helps some Lisa. Also if you can, send me links to some photos of your Willys and I will put them on my website with your question and my answer.

Thanks,

Larry

Follow-up (with photos) from Lisa:

Here are some pictures of our Jeep. It does have rounded fenders on it. The top we got for it was for a CJ3B and it does not fit, so we are thinking ours must be a CJ5. Thanks for all your help.

My Reply to Lisa's follow-up:

Lisa,

After viewing your photos it is clearly a CJ5 although I am wondering if all the original parts are there. The serial # you gave me was for a CJ3B, however both the 3B's and the early CJ5's were being produced at the same time...so I'm sure many parts were interchangeable...but the body styles were quite different.

The "Renegade" emblems on the hood indicate a different hood or the decals were added later because the Renegade CJ5's were not produced until 1970.

Thanks for sending the great photos and I hope you get the proper top for your great old Willys Jeep.

Larry

Sounds like a great find Steve!

I have thought about this myself...if I were to come across a really good re-builder...what would I do?

Well, this is only my opinion, but if I had a "complete" old post war Jeep I think I would want to restore it to it's original condition for two reasons: 1) to preserve these American Icons for future generations, and; 2) to maintain it's value as a collectible.

As for going less than 50 mph on the highway I had the same problem with my M38A1 with the dauntless Buick V6 engine. You can change the gearing, transmission and add overdrive, but then you might deviate too much from the original components. They were not designed to go much more than 40 mph...and my old Jeep was over-revving at around 45 mph. However, it was an awesome performer in off road situations.

Then, after restoring the old '46 I might try to find a good old "flat fender" Jeep tub and frame to build into a monster off road machine for all out fun.

After all...no one said we are limited to owning just one Jeep.

Larry